Wanted: Extractors/Headers

[Redassassin]

Would anybody happen to have a set of extractors/headers for the 1300 that they're willing to part with in the waikato area?

[JoKer]

I had been watching a set get re-listed on TM for a few months will see if I can find : or try Ian Sutherland Rootes group Parts guy

edit : these wernt them but seems they make 'em

also whats wrong with yours?

these are the ones made by "Coby" iirc & same as what the listing I'm hunting (has expired or sold or stopped re;listing) was for

As for extractors, I used these for my '75. They are locally made here in NZ, it would probably be easier for you to get a set from UK.

[Redassassin]

I'm currently still using the stock exhaust manifold but am planning to put twin carbs on so want to get extractors on first to let the engine "breathe" better. Also, question: Is there any point in me doing this with the 1300cc engine? Or should I just go for a 1600? I've spent a bit of money getting this 1300 running nicely but if its not worth it to do twin carbs/extractors etc. on the 1300 i'll bite the bullet and go buy the 1600

[JoKer]

anyone will say 1600 or 1500, tho try it & see?

Extractors are pretty rare tbh, just TC it & see how you go I say (i'm not a conventional thinker)

you'll need to make a wee blanking plate to go on the stock exhaust where it bolts to the underside of the carb (warms the carb up for better running) or fit a TC exhaust

[oldschool]

Avenger engines produce more torque using single carbs rather than twins. The 1300 engine doesn't have much torque to start with and putting twin carbs on it will reduce it further.
Also the camshaft would need changing to suit the twin carbs. Changing an Avenger camshaft is a major job with the engine in place. My advice is to leave it as is.
While transplanting a 1500/1600 engine is an option. Bear in mind that changing the 1300 engine to a 1500/1600 reduces the value of your car to a collector as it would no longer be original.
Not really worth putting extractors on a 1300 either...the twin branch exhaust manifold/front pipe is already free-flow. You could change the muffler to a more free-flow one.

[Redassassin]

Ah that makes sense, I am rather keen on keeping the 1300 as you said its original and I've spent a bit of money on it already. How about a larger single carb setup? If so, what kind of carb would be a good upgrade for a single carb setup? I'm just looking at getting a bit more power right now as the stock 1300 is a bit gutless.

[JoKer]

you'd be best talking / pestering Ross about that, he seems to have played with all sorts of combinations

think his nickname is Oldschool on here?

http://www.avenger.co.nz/forum/index.php?topic=45.0

are his cars

[oldschool]

Here's some easy ways to make a standard Avenger go faster...

Pump up the tyres to 40 psi front, 35 psi rear.
Set the ignition timing to 10 deg. BTDC...you'll need to use 98 petrol.
Ditch the air cleaner element if driving on sealed roads...they're quite restrictive.
Fit an electric radiator fan (Hillman models)
Fit electronic ignition (Hillman models) I have the kits.
Fit a free-flow muffler and 1.75" straight through tail pipe.
Fit a 70 deg. thermostat...Avenger engines like to run cool.
Fit my triple electrode spark plugs...you'll feel the difference straight away!

[Redassassin]

Awesome, at the moment I only use 98 anyway, its subtle but I can feel a small difference between 95 and 98, it feels "smoother" to drive on 98. The car currently does have Electronic Ignition and an Electric radiator fan as its the late Chrysler model. I need to get the radiator and block professionally flushed as I'm pretty sure its pretty bad clogged (temp rises at lights etc. To the point I need to turn on my heater to stop it from overheating) but after that I will get the new thermostat you mentioned, I'm assuming Repco stocks the thermostat i'll need? Also how much for the spark plugs? What are the not-so easy ways to make an avenger go faster?

[oldschool]

Make sure your electric fan switch is working? You should hear the fan coming on when stopped as the temp rises.
The manual Avenger has a crummy 2 row radiator..not up to the job when stuck in traffic on a hot day!
The auto's had a 3 row...much better...so fit one of those cores if and when you change your radiator.
The 70 degree thermostat is a bit rare...I got a Tridon one...can order it from Repco, Appco etc.

azza1600 has fitted a 1.75" carby to his Avenger to replace the 1.50" one...easier than fitting twin carbs as you use your existing manifold...just ream out the bore slightly and the carby mounting holes. That will give you more top end without affecting the torque.
The 1.75" carby was used on Triumphs, Jags and Rovers.
Fitting an Alpine camshaft increases performance...remove sump, oil pump, cylinder head, push rods, cam followers, distributor, fuel pump, radiator, water pump, timing cover, timing chain and camshaft sprocket to change!
4 x spark plugs delivered is $46 not RD or $49 including RD. PM me and we'll swap details.

[JoKer]

heh you make changing a cam sound sooo easy lol

[avenga]

The manual Avenger has a crummy 2 row radiator..not up to the job when stuck in traffic on a hot day!
The auto's had a 3 row...much better...so fit one of those cores if and when you change your radiator.

I put a triple core Automatic radiator in my Avenger and it made a massive difference. My Avenger stays really frosty now, almost never hear my electric fan come on anymore.

[JoKer]

too cold on some cars/makes can be an issue to with things not getting up to operating temps

just my 2c not saying this is a bad arrangement on Avengers, just a thought

[avenga]

too cold on some cars/makes can be an issue to with things not getting up to operating temps

just my 2c not saying this is a bad arrangement on Avengers, just a thought

Yeah, mine doesn't run super cold, my motor is hotted up so I found on the stock radiator it would get really hot, with the triple core it sits just below the N but the main difference is that it doesn't heat up if stuck in traffic. It always hovers just under the N, with the dual core the moment you stopped you would see the temp starting to go up and I would have to hit the electric fan.

[Redassassin]

The fan definitely comes on as I can hear it going and it runs for about 10-15 seconds after I turn the car off if its still quite hot, The car cools down pretty quickly once I'm driving again. We changed the cylinder head on the block (original's valves and head were pretty crook) and a lot of the coolant holes were pretty badly blocked to the point we had to use a drill to unblock them (Piston's/cylinders and lifters were in really good condition which was nice) I will definitely look into just getting the radiator recored as I don't suppose any of you guys would happen to have the 3 core auto radiator? I've seen quite a few Stromberg 175's on Trademe recently, pretty decently priced so I think i'll definitely end up buying one of those.