Avengers for sale around the world...

[avengertiger]

That's a clean Chrysler,ziebarted to every car I have had that had that treatment was solid no rust,it was expensive to do in the day,all the spots that are prone to rust have been done around the boot under the rear window,in the spare wheel well and inside the rear quarters,looks to have plenty of period accessories to,headlamp covers,Lucas spotlights,those side repeaters are out of the hillman catalogue to.
Interior is a rare colour to never seen grey in an avenger dash is nearly nice.....
Must be a fuse or something Ross or a split for more earths,power feeds

[Paddy75]

Oh indeedy ye can't bate the oiled car that is for sure. The 1300 was waxoiled a couple of times and this has saved it, the chassis is 100%, bit of rot on the door bottoms nothing too serious.

The fusible link I seen on Davids 1980 1.6 LS, its just a connector I guess a fast way for the factory to connect up the wiring. There were a few wiring changes on the S9 I seen going through the wiring diagrams trying to get the electronic unit to work and re-rigging the oil pressure unit.
The two heavy brown +ve cables also are ran from the alternator to the starter, using both the B+ spades so I suppose someone was thinking in Linwood!

The dizzy looks like a Lucas 45D, I thought the electronic units were Bosch although there apparently was a Lucas 45DM electronic reluctor type used also.

The hubcaps with the beuatifiers/embellishers, you could sell those all day long! I don't think the chrome type like those fitted to the MK1 and early MK2 were still used in 1979. They of course look a lot better than the plastic things the S8 on got.

As for the repeaters they are the standard Lucas type as fitted to many made in England cars of the time. Usually you seen them on the front of the wings not by the door - which would make more sense - I personally don't like them because every time I see that standard Lucas type it makes me think Austin Maxi!

This Avenger is in the stakes for the 'Ebay Avenger of the year' award!

Well I have a garage just finished here so room for another. No! Down boy!!! No bids on it yet....Nooooooo....A MK2 would be good to have....Arrrrgggghhhhhhh!!!!!! A 1600!...Ffffffffff...

[avengertiger]

Go on paddy,ye can't take it with you
Write it off as a travel expense for work or something.

[Paddy75]

If I'm ever contracting in England again I think I know what'll happen... Mind you the way cars have gotten so complicated and guranteed massive expense with fuel injection systems a Peugeot 309 straight diesel would be the GB minter worth the taking home - put a scabby old Talbot badge on the front lid! Yeh yeh the 309 was the only true Peugeot-Talbot, was gonna be the Talbot Arizona.

More likely however...

Oh a MK1 round headlamp...has a MoT....Quick phone call to the insurance company, ''..ah Mr Brennan, lets guess what you are doing..''

Frig me but you can get engines in the UK for nothing! Here the Farm QA scheme has made it hard to find anything. I was lucky I found that rotten 1250 Super.

Right lets see if the 2-door up the town is gonna start today. I'd bet the auto spark didn't bother rigging up the gauges.

[Paddy75]

So-called auto spark 'experts' my heel they are.
The owner wants it running on the Chrysler ''..starts like a Rolls-Royce..'' electronic system and had it with an auto spark to get this working.

Went round to the 2-door rally project today. First of all the 0.5ohm ballast is open circuit. Engine started by feeding batt +ve to the + side of the coil but of course this is too much for the coil, assuming it is a 1.5ohm coil, b/c it looks to me like a points 3ohm coil and the Avenger was running on a points dizzy to get it going. So it needs a proper electronic suited 1.5 ohm coil.

Now I see on ASOC there have been a few people caught with the Chrysler electronic system and no real advice has been given.

I have a good electrical/telecomms background and this is intresting me.

The auto spark left the car with a blown ballast and no starting cct. When the engine is being cranked the ballast is meant to be by-passed so full 11-12V is applied to the coil, then when the engine fires the coil is then fed via the ballast. The other (5ohm) resistor is to save the amplifier as 12-14V is too much to put accross a transistor, which is what the control unit is.

Luckily for the owner I am not hard to pay and I have a ballast block (has the Peugeot lion on it BTW) for an Avenger or Sunbeam and with, I think, is a 1.5ohm coil. The wee digi meters are not good at measuring resistance so you can't trust them, you'd really need a proper Avo8 1950's looking meter to measure low resistance values.
So I assume the coil I got with the electronic dizzy upgrade kit is okay, I have a powerspark 1.5 ohm coil on my Avenger which I got elsewhere.

The main thing is the dizzy is working, I do get a spark but only by feeding the coil and the coil only takes the current with the ignition on, so I assume the amplifier also is working. This by the amplifier creating a cct on the -ve side of the coil when the ignition goes on.

There is a disaster story here with the dizzy too!
Me and the Mechanic tried to start the Avenger, weber quads are suspect but thats for someone else, the engine has been built by some other 'expert'.

So firstly all we could get, after feeding the coil for a spark, was the odd backfiring, the dizzy was arseways, the vac unit facing the front. So the auto spark had figured the oil pump drive is mistimed but didn't do what he had to do.

Not trusting the crank pully I got TDC #1 by a screwdriver and cranked over 1/2 turn to check it was on the bang stroke, looked good. Took the crank back to #1 TDC and...
Where was the rotor arm pointing? The position for #2, so just re-plugged the HT leads to suit and with a lot of spluttering so the engine started, very badly. Ran for 10secs and then smoke from the big foam air cleaner for the weber quad things. Fire in the manifold!

You may think this could be firing on wrong cylinders but the TDC mark also aligned with the rotor at #2.

There is an electric pump in the boot to a bag tank thing but no return from the carbs. The mechanic reckons there should be a return, I just don't know.

Maybe the webers are jetted for a 2.0 or 2.2, anyhow someone elses problem!

I am going to fit the new ballast block and electronit coil tomorrow and then trace out all the wiring to make sure all is as it should be, I'll add a wire from the starter to the coil +ve for the starting cct as the ballast connector doesn't have the bridge wire as the Haynes manual shows.

Seems a lot of people are being caught out with these things. Dunno why the owner wants the electronic system as he has put a MK1 front on the Avenger so a points coil would hardly make any 'genuine' diffrence or whatever.

Gonna see if I can crack this one.

[Paddy75]

Well thats that done. The 2-door is giving a strong spark with the new ballast block and a 1.5ohm coil. Buzzed out all the wiring all is as it should be.
I'm droning on about the 2-door rally Avenger I've been doing a bit of work on.

There is indeed a starting circuit which is not just a wire from the switch wire but from a small spade at the engine side of the solenoid, I guess this gives 12V only when the solenoid engages, not just when the starter is told to start. So the full battery voltage is given to the coil when cranking.
Connected gives a strong cranking spark, dissconnected gives a much weaker spark.

I notice though the ballast block is getting pretty hot, as the weber DOCE's are flooding the engine its a lot of cranking to get it to splutter. Only by switching off the fuel pump am I getting the engine to fire, for about 2-3 seconds.
So to get the engine to run I thought to remove the weber quad and put on my old SC manifold and carbie. Just to see that the spark is steady and to check the coil and ballast is not getting hot.
But the branch exhaust manifold wouldn't let the standard inlet fit.

I don't want to bill the owner as I'm not 100% happy that the ignition is now fixed. The weber quad DOCE's are banjaxed. They are very badly flooding the engine to the point where I got another wee fire today with them!
The Mechanic reckons the owner was defrauded out of the new set he bought a year or so ago and the 'experts' that built the enging fleeced the weber he bought. I know dang all about DOCE quad carbies but I do know the jet on them are way too big for thie engine. I can only guess that they are jets for a 2.2 or something.

Now I want to get that engine running. SC manifold won't fit and I don't want to pull the exhaust manifold off her.
There may be a way.

The weber downdraught I took off Davids MK1. Maybe that, with its downdraught will fit. David would be happy to get it sold as he is content with my pot-luck SU single conversion from the weber I did for him. (HS4C rod operated.)

Will that manifold fit. Only one way to find out.

BTW is there that much diffrence in quad carbies compared to 1 3/4'' twins? Suppose there must be. The Mechanic reckons TC would be enough. The quads are just about making show-off noise according to him!

I see there is a Lynx crossover manifold for Avenger & Sunbeam engines which you fit one of the DOCE sets. Is that better than TC's?

Anyhow as far as I can tell troubles with the Chrysler electronic ignition system is due to either the wrong coil being used or the ballast blowing due to too much cranking for whatever reason that may be.
The old ballast was deffo not working. The strange thing is though, when cranking the coil resistor is not pulling current because the starting circuit has bypassed it.
Only the 5ohm control unit resistor would be sucking the amps when cranking. Is the excessive heat from the 5ohm when over cranking scorching the 0.5ohm coil resistor?!

Thinking too much. Ballast got banjaxed because of whatever. Kack-handed auto-spark and/or owner.

[Paddy75]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1980-TALBOT-AVENGER-1-3-LS-IN-BLUE-35-000-MILES-/360663418309?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item53f93705c5

A very presentable 1980 1300. The door cards look like they are feom an earlier DL, or were they the same on the LS?
No console around the gear lever and the back doors have pull straps. Bit of a mix of bits but none the worse for it.

[Paddy75]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hillman-Avenger-Coupe-1971-3-door-RHD-CLASSIC-CAR-/321132432573?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item4ac4fc0cbd

A '1971' 2-door in Poland!
That's a 1500cc Super. The seat pattern is pre Oct'73 and the dash is an early Super also. V-shaped manifold and a square grille badge. Looks like a few mods have been made, what's that radiator? Looks like a Fiat maybe. Likely, all the Polski Fiats in Poland! Bad way to put in a rear seatbelt!
So its a 1973, one of the pre 1300/1600 upgrade 2-doors. He is looking for about a thousand too much.

[Paddy75]

http://cars.donedeal.co.uk/for-sale/vintagecars/5027059

Looks like the banner Avenger on this site!

[oldschool]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hillman-Avenger-Coupe-1971-3-door-RHD-CLASSIC-CAR-/321132432573?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item4ac4fc0cbd

A '1971' 2-door in Poland!
That's a 1500cc Super. The seat pattern is pre Oct'73 and the dash is an early Super also. V-shaped manifold and a square grille badge. Looks like a few mods have been made, what's that radiator? Looks like a Fiat maybe. Likely, all the Polski Fiats in Poland! Bad way to put in a rear seatbelt!
So its a 1973, one of the pre 1300/1600 upgrade 2-doors. He is looking for about a thousand too much.

Yeah that's a Fiat 125? radiator Paddy, you can tell by the big cap and not original either...see how the top hose is distorted.
That looks like the front seat belt mount for an 'over the shoulder' belt as not enough meat on the B pillar for the normal top seat belt mount used in the 4 doors...were all 2 door seat belts like that?
Wonder where the battery went, has been replaced by the radiator overflow bottle...lol

[Paddy75]

There is a youtube clip about the Polish 2-door, yeh that looks like a Fiat rad' alright, reminds me of a Fiat Uno I had for a few months way back when. It was quick for an 1100cc, really noisy gearbag and hard to feed the Uno whenever it decided to start!
If it was raining it was 50/50 wether it started!

Hillman Avenger Coupe 1.5L GT 1971r. For Sale! Poland - Warsaw

Sounds like the valve guides need reamed. Well whole engine rebuilt. The 1500DL 2-door was tested in Autocar magazine April 1973. Was found to be good on fuel, 38mpg average. Yeh some say the 1500cc was the easiest ran. Must be the mild cam I guess.
They gave it a good write up and recommended it as the best in class, small family 2-door.

There were a lot of early MK1 2-doors usually in blue as well. The 1250/1500 2-door would only have been made Mar-Sept'73 seems strange that there were so many of them for such a short run.

Must have been a special offer on or something. Or the 2-door in 1250/1500 ran on for a few months more to run out the older blocks? Nah, apparently they ran out of 1500cc blocks before the official 1300/1600 upgrade - arrgh the daft bits of information you hear!

I was working in Prague a few years ago, if I'd seen that forsale then likely it'd have gotten a look at.

[Paddy75]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/talbot-sunbeam-shell-l-k-re-shell-lotus-ti-rally-etc-/151057980943?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item232bc1de0f

A tidy S2 Sunbeam for rebuild. Looks like a good one.

[Paddy75]

A bit of Sunbeam porno! That shade of blue really suits them!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151064970895?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_723wt_1399&clk_rvr_id=492866683711

Forsale by an ASOC member. Is registred as a 1.0 so half price road tax.
Running on a CD175 with a four stud manifold with a fuel regulator I see, that's the way to do it! I have ebayed an early fixed needle CDS, the one with the mixture screw at the bottom, lets see how that colours the plugs. Its great when a seller doesn't know what they have and badly list the item!

The Sunbeam Trio, probably was a special edition to run out the parts inventory before they went to the Sunbeam S2.

[Paddy75]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1972-HILLMAN-AVENGER-TIGER-1500-DELUXE-RED-/181163561296?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2a2e309150

A Tiger2 in wardance ''..1500 Deluxe..'' err!! Two Tigers on Ebay UK, they always seem to be for sale somewhere.

This is the start of a problem. I have personally seen the weber downdraught start to wreck an engine and heard recently from a guy who fitted them and two weeks later the compression was gone. Just don't, TC's or a 1.75 single.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TALBOT-SUNBEAM-HILLMAN-AVENGER-TWIN-CHOKE-WEBER-CARB-INLET-MANIFOLD-WEBBER-28-36-/290936376212?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43bd28cb94

Oh sure you can set the airfeed but its not going to work! People seem to feel obliged to fit weber downdraughts in place of the FoMoCo single choke on their Escorts, maybe this suits a crossflow. The fumes from the tail-pipe though!

As for the Stromberg fixed needle CDS, the one with the mixture screw at the base of the float chamber, they seem to be the best all round carburettor. Good feed at high rpm, no jerks at low rpm. Yep, the CD3 was about emissions, and that means - only really works on a new engine - mind you I'm running a CDS with the 1500cc needle so sure there is a strong fuel feed!

[Paddy75]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1972-HILLMAN-AVENGER-GT-RARE-CAR-/190861366960?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2c703956b0

A GT in easy restoreable shape. The TC's are gone and what looks like a MK2 manifold and single in its place.
See what else this guy is selling!