Lumpy Cams?

[DOHC]

Hey the new kid again keep in mind this is for a Hunter not an Avenger (not that i think this makes a difference to my question). ANYWAY i have been thinking about getting my cam made into a lumpy cam (my mate knows someone that did it for his mini so i could possibly get a deal).

So what im getting at is, beyond just removing the cam and getting it modified and putting it back in.. Do i need to change/adjust anything else? Or drop it in and away she goes? As you may or may not have noticed im a rookie at this mechanical business unfortunately :/

Anyone care to drop some knowledge on me?

[JoKer]

what kind of driving do you do? they are shit around town for lack of a better word

[oldschool]

The cam is down the side of the motor (not on top like modern cars) and that usually means the motor has to be taken out of the car and disassembled to remove it, so cam upgrades are usually done when motors are overhauled...probably not worth changing the cam until then.

[DOHC]

Drats yeah just round town i just love the way they make the car sound so meaty

[avenga]

You are usually best to reface the lifters when you do the cam. I don't know if the Hunter has hydraulic lifters or not, but get them refaced so you have a nice new surface on both the cam and the lifters.

Also make sure you run in the cam properly.

On an Avenger you can replace the cam without removing the engine but I am not sure about the Hunter.

As Joker said, they are rubbish for round town driving. I had super lumpy cams in my race car, went great at around 4,000-9,000RPM but crap under that so it was rubbish for the road because you never pulled enough revs. My '75 has a sort of lumpy cam and it is okay for the street, pulls from 3,000-7,000RPM.

But yeah you have to look at the engine as a whole unit, often just doing 1 thing and ignoring the rest will make your motor run worse. So you can't do your cams unless you have done your heads to match, then you have to do your manifolds to match, then your carbs to match and your exhaust system to match.

[oldschool]

If you haven't already got a workshop manual, get one (see link below) as it will list the cam specs used in the Standard and GT models. Then get your standard cam re-ground to the GT spec. Will give a good power boost even without putting twin carbs on.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/chrysler/manuals/auction-559468660.htm