1500/1600

[DanFindy]

Yup, that engine work sounds like it will give you a really strong little engine, chuck on some extractors and the twin 40's and you will be set.

Avengers have coils at the back so no need for lowering blocks, just buy some shorter stiffer shocks and springs and you will be away laughing. doing the front end helps heaps also, when done properly they handle like a true race car.

I also run an electric fuel pump to my Dellortos, 3psi is perfect.

What a stupid thing to say regarding lowering blocks...........my bad i forgot
Would u be able to give me a wee rundown on the plumbing of the fuel lines fella? u running a stand alone switch or connected through the ignition?
As regards extractors any suggestions??

[avenga]

My fuel pump basically runs through my ignition, it also goes through the imobiliser on my alarm so if the alarm is set then no fuel. I also imobilise 3-4 other things so she would be pretty hard to steal.

As for the physical location of the fuel pump and filters, they are all hidden away out of site as part of my engine bay deloom.

[avenga]

As for extractors, I used these for my '75. They are locally made here in NZ, it would probably be easier for you to get a set from UK.

[NZTiger]

Don't get carried away with electric fuel pumps, a good std pump has served my highly modified engine through many versions and improvements which now gives 140Hp at the wheels being feed via twin 45DCOEs. I have only recently changed to an electric pump as I was concerned that constant high speed running may lead to leaning out from limited fuel flow.

There are a few basic that must be done:-
Do not use a 1500 head other that the "S" marked heads from the 1500 TC or Alpine as the spring seat can not easily take double valve springs and the std spring collars are cast iron and will creak then break and drop the valve if you start to rev the engine.

Do not polish the inlet port or the combustion chamber as this will loose HP, by all means open up the ports to allow more flow, but leave the surface quite rough. Get a the valves ground with multi angle seats and have bronze valve guides fitted if you can afford it as these engine like to wear the std guides which are machined straight into the head casting.

If you are going to do any work on the block then machine 40 thou off the top to increase the compression ratio. Do not plane the head.

Use the TC/Apline cam which is a excellent cam and works very well with Head and carb mods. Also upgrade the timing gear to the Duplex chain as in TC/Alpines.

Change the ignition to the electronic system from the Chysler Avenger. Its a very simple mod if you can find a Chrysler, get the Dizy, coil, ballast resistor and the ignition loom and it will plug straight in. Change the plugs to Champion N6Y or equal.

Two final must that will not make it go faster, but will save you money from radiator repairs....get rid of the std fan and fit an electric one and MAKE SURE the engine mounts a in good condition and fit restraint boxes around them if possible, if not the first time you go for a blast up the road and jump on the brakes then the std fan will grind itself into the middle of the radiator...AVENGA will testify to this.

There are heaps more to do, but start with a few basics and and all will be great...

[avenga]

Two final must that will not make it go faster, but will save you money from radiator repairs....get rid of the std fan and fit an electric one and MAKE SURE the engine mounts a in good condition and fit restraint boxes around them if possible, if not the first time you go for a blast up the road and jump on the brakes then the std fan will grind itself into the middle of the radiator...AVENGA will testify to this.

Yup, that is a must. And here is the proof, just after running in my new engine I ran it up to 7,000RPM then stomped on the brakes for the next corner then BOOM.

Damaged radiator



Broken fan

[azza1600]

So is there a difference between a 1600 alpine head and a late model 1600 head? well apart from the double valve springs??

[oldschool]

All the 1600 heads are the same, apart from double valve springs on the Alpine models. The 1500 Alpine had bigger inlet valves (same as Tiger) as well. That head has an 'S' cast in it behind the thermostat housing to indicate it's different to a standard 1500 head. I think the 'S' head can also be used on a 1600 motor...if you can find one!!
The Chrysler GLS replaced the Alpine as the top model, but only used a standard 1600 motor, so no twin carbs, warm cam, lighter flywheel and double valve springs...making them a bit gutless...my Alpine will piss all over my GLS!!

[avenga]

I have an 'S' head on my 1500.

Took me ages to track it down, my 1500 is out of a '73 Alpine.

[oldschool]

Yes, hard to track one down nowadays as the 1500 Alpine was only made in 1973. Before that was the 1500 TC which was a NZ 1500 Avenger fitted with twin carbs, so maybe no S head?
Steve who bought Scarlet, thought she went better with the 1600 Alpine motor and just a single carb, than the 1500 TC he owned years ago.
Has anyone put the bigger inlet valves in the 1600 head I wonder?

[NZTiger]

The 1500 TC had the same engine as the Alpine and has the "S" Head.

All head s are interchangeable physically but there could be some effects to the CR as the chamber sixes are a bit different between the engine sizes.

If I was building a new head from scratch I would start with a 1300 head as it has the smallest ports etc and would give the most scope for shaping ports and chambers to maximise port angles etc.

[azza1600]

So any idea what benefit double valve springs offer on a stock 1600 alpine engine?? valve bounce but hey at wat rpm? I put a recond standard 1600 head on my alpine engine, I dnt take it much past 5 1/2k ish, thought pointless when power starts to drop off, or am i wrong? got told that double valve springs on vengers wear out cams fast, apart from that my engine is alpine with extractors an 1 3/4 su and electronic ign, early gearbox and 3:7 diff

[oldschool]

Valve bounce usually happens after 6000 rpm and since the twin carb Alpine motor produces its max power at 5500 rpm, compared to 5000 rpm for a single carb Avenger, Hillman probably thought it prudent to fit double valve springs.
Another advantage of double valve springs not often mentioned is safety.
Valve springs can break from fatigue and if it happens at high rpm it's game over for the piston and head damage too, so it's good to have a 'spare'!
Like a twin row timing chain, they do use a little power, I read 1kW on a V8...so maybe only 200w on an Avenger...with their low lift cam?
I haven't heard of cams getting worn from double valve springs, would be more likely the rocker gear as it directly operates the valves and has to absorb a higher mechanical force than the cam.
Long story short...no point using double valve springs on a single or twin carb Avenger run under 6000 rpm.

[azza1600]

Cool, I'll stick with what Ive got......well until it goes bang lol

[oldschool]

Yeah better keep those extractors on Aaron...you don't want too much power...LOL

[azza1600]

Haha yeah extractley